Home for the Holidays

We left Vermont for NY in the early afternoon on Monday.  It snowed most of the way.  Small, early winter snow flakes that barely kissed the car.  And like magic, as we turned off of 22A and into NY state, it stopped and the sun came out.

On Tuesday I went to the Spanish Embassy on East 58th street.  I don’t think I’ve been there since I got married.  I had to get some authorization forms for Isabel’s Spanish passport.  I was somewhat successful.

It was a perfectly warm autumn day.  Sunny.  Open coat, open scarf, sunglasses on, almost sweating as I walked.  And so I walked.  I walked down Lexington from 58th to Kalustyans on 28th and Lex.  Then further south, around Gramercy Park and then on to Union Square.  It felt good to move my body after having driven the day before.  It felt good to walk in my city.  NY is a good city for walking.  It was lunchtime and my walking companions were business people out getting lunch.  Men and women in their work clothes and sunglasses, taking their time with bags of takeout in their hands.  Everyone knows how to walk.  I did get stuck behind an old lady with a cane and some dolt with their head in phone as we walked under construction scaffolding, but I got past.  I do love a city where people know how to walk.

Wednesday Dad and I shopped.  Thursday, Thanksgiving,  we cooked.

I used to host Thanksgiving dinner when I lived in Spain.  At first I thought it would be an orphan’s Thanksgiving for fellow Americans who were in Madrid.  But everyone hosts one of those and so my Thanksgiving morphed into an American Thanksgiving for Spaniards.  Alfonso would invite his friends and cousins, my sister-in-law.  It was a lot of work for me to prepare a “Traditional American Thanksgiving Dinner” alone – but I did it.  And somewhat enjoyed it.  Cranberries were impossible to find.  One year, I had my dad send me some.  Turkeys had to be pre-ordered from the pollería.  I’d make stuffing, gravy, cranberry sauce (when I had whole cranberries — no can shaped cranberry disks for me!) mashed potatoes, roasted carrots, simple green beans, an apple pie and a pumpkin pie and the turkey of course.  Generally, Spaniards think no one knows how to eat as well as they do.  They also tend to think that Americans only eat hamburgers and french fries.  I relished in showing them that that was untrue.   We would drink many bottles of wine.  It was fun.  One year a friend of A’s cousin insisted on bringing bread.  “I can’t eat without bread.”  I said, ok, but there is bread in the stuffing…  He also wanted turkey drippings to sop up with said bread.  I said, ok, but there is gravy (with drippings in it).

The last year I hosted I was pregnant.  Newly pregnant, first trimester.  We weren’t telling anyone yet.  Halfway through cooking the turkey, our oven (which had been on the fritz for a long time coming) completely broke.  I cried.  Alfonso drove the turkey and the stuffing and a pie to his sister’s house where she finished cooking everything in her oven, sending me photos all along to make sure things looked ok.    Guests came, they were none the wiser.  Everyone drank wine.  I did not.  Everyone stayed late.  I wanted to go to bed.  Cooking thanksgiving dinner while 2 months pregnant is not for the faint hearted.  It was the last one that I hosted in Spain and the last one that I did alone.

This year, the day after Thanksgiving I had to return to the Spanish Embassy.  I was worried about Black Friday traffic and crowds.  But I was in luck.  I hopped on the express bus, got downtown from The Bronx in record time.   And also surprisingly, the Spanish bureaucracy was also on my side.  The person at the first desk seemed to understand and know exactly what I needed and so I was allowed in to wait to see someone at the next desk.  I had to wait a good hour.  The Spanish Embassy of NYC is on the 30th floor of a high-rise on East 58th Street.  The airy room has large windows with expansive views north.  The room was filled mostly with bi-national families.  I easily marked who was Spanish and who American in each set.  The kids spoke freely in unaccented English and unaccented Spanish.   I felt, how did I feel?  I felt a strange sense of sadness and comfort.  Right, I too was a part of a bi-national family.   It felt totally comfortable to wait in that sparse, clean room with gorgeous views.  (More than one person took selfies as they waited).    But it also felt sad.  I *was* part of a Spanish American family.

The young and pretty Spanish woman finally called my name (mispronounced as I expected) and she responded in lovely English as I spoke in my unpracticed Spanish.  All would be taken care of – no problem. Isabel will be able to renew her Spanish passport while in Spain without me being there.    It was almost too easy even with the hour long wait.

With my afternoon to myself I decided to take myself to see a movie, Lady Bird.  As luck would have it, there was a showing in about 40 minutes at the Lowes on Broadway and 19th.  I hopped on the N train at 59th  which arrived just as I stepped on the platform – more luck!

While not pleased with $15 price tag for ONE person for an afternoon showing, I was pleasantly surprised that the bathroom was a mess, toilets overflowing, holes in the wall – AH – NY still has some dirt, its not all so shiny.

Lady Bird was great.  I laughed and cried.  I loved the 17 year old main character.  Ostensibly it is a coming of age story about the relationship between mother and daughter.  But also, underneath it all, is about the desire to live somewhere else, to leave your home, to fantasize and dream of living somewhere other than where you are.

I got it. I get it.  I did that too.

I took the bus back up to The Bronx, the same bus that I’ve been taking all my life.  Sitting in the same seat on the bus up to my parents’ house.  No traffic (lucky again!).  I sat with thoughts of the movie, and sat with thoughts of the Spanish American families at the embassy and sat with the idea of home.  The Bronx is home.  Madrid is home.  Vermont is home.  I am home.

 

 

 

Tomorrow I will climb a mountain

I’ve been in Spain for about a week. Most of that time has been spent in the province of Asturias, in the lovely city of Gijón. The first time I visited Asturias I thought we had driven into France while I had been sleeping.  It’s green and lush and mountainous and nothing at all like the orange meseta of Castilla.  I had the same sensation this last time as I drowsily looked out the window at the hot, flat land that constitutes my image of España– Dry, yellow and orange, fields of sunflowers here and there, square bales of hay, random ruins among the Encinas, which are short and green and fluffy and much smaller than our American counterpart, the stately oak.

And then, without any warning at all, suddenly you’re in the mountains and the temperature drops 10 degrees. El rio Luna running beside the highway.

Gijon was full of family. My daughter’s family, and I suppose they are mine as well, despite my decisions, of which I’ll save my thoughts. Isabel loved meeting her new cousin Pablo, loved running around and being loved by all her tia abuelas, loved having her older cousins chase her and tickle her.  Her goma (Isabel couldn’t say Begoña, her abuela’s name when she was younger, so she’s goma) and her Tia Ana bought her flamenco shoes, red with black polka dots. She called them her shoes of baile and wore them any chance she got.

And then today, we drove to the airport where I hugged her so tightly and didn’t want to let go.  She walked calmly and happily through the security gate with her father. She’s off to spend 10 days in Lanzarote with her father and abuelos, without me.  Mixed emotions are an understatement.

After leaving them, I took the cercanias back to the center of Madrid, my second home. It’s hot and airless and August. I had some errands to run before my walk, some things to buy. My feet led the way as I retraced steps I used to take so so often. The city is the same, and yet different- isn’t that always the way– it sounds so trite, frankly.  

On my second night in Madrid, I went to see an old friend play music and wound up having dinner with the band because of course the gig doesn’t start at 10.  I was overjoyed to find they had ordered all my favorites, loved chatting in Spanish over boquerones en vinagre y acetunas y cañas.  I left feeling alive and like myself.  

After too long, I feel like me again.

Tomorrow I will start my second Camino. My first was full of questions and doubts and my overwhelming desire for a child.  I’m not quite sure what I’m looking for this second time.  As I said, I’m feeling like myself, confident and sane. 

Of course my desire for love remains. But for now, I’ll be happy      to love myself.  

Self care. Self love. I’m such a freaking hippy.

Tomorrow I’ll cross the the Pyrenees. 

Last Vacation…. ever?

Well, at least it will be the last vacation before the baby arrives.  And it will be the last vacation that Alfonso and I will take alone for awhile.

We had a long weekend, here in Madrid, known as the May puente.  May 1st is a national holiday (May Day if you didn’t know!) and May 2nd is Madrid’s Day – its the day that Madrid rebelled against the French (also known as Dos de Mayo).  This year, they fell on a Wednesday and Thursday, and my job and Alfonso’s were kind enough to give us the Friday to make it a nice long 5 day weekend.

I was hunkering for a beach, so we went south to the coast of Almería, to the Natural Park of Cabo de Gata.  If you haven’t ever visited or heard of this part of the world – man, let me tell you  – its beautiful.  A bit far from Madrid (almost 6 hours driving), but so worth it.  We (actually, I mean – I- since I did the research and made the reservation!) decided to stay in the small town of Las Negras.  The price for the hotel, and the reviews of the hotel were the deciding factors.  We stayed here:  http://www.calachica.com/ and it was absolutely perfect.  All the rooms have terraces and I requested one with a sea view.  Very simple room, but clean and with everything you could need.  (also, the bathroom was really nice).    Highly recommended.

View from our hotel room

View from our hotel room

The first day we arrived, checked in, and went looking for lunch.  We explored the giant city of Las Negras, about 10 minutes to see everything. The town definitely has a hippie vibe.  An easy place to drop out and live in pretty surroundings. The beach was about 5 minutes from the hotel, and we had lunch on the coast at a restaurant that had been recommended by a friend of Alfonso’s and by the hotel.  Watching the sea, the little boats pulling up, enjoying the hot sun, we dug into a plate of fried fish and a salad and some ice cream to finish it off.  After this we wandered around the town and went back to the hotel where I promptly fell asleep!  That night there was a football match, Barcelona and Munich, we went to the only bar in town that was showing the match.  You can imagine how busy it was!

The next day, unsure of the weather we decided to go sightseeing rather than go to the beach. We drove around to all the little villages and had lunch in the gorgeous Agua Amarga – paella on the beach.  We had a great day of driving around, seeing the sights, just enjoying the air and our surroundings.  For dinner, we came back to Las Negras and had a kebob.  (of course there was a small kebob/pizza joint in Las Negras – and actually the kebob was pretty good – better than what you often find in Madrid).

Our final full day I said  – Beach!  I had read about a Cala (a cove) that was an easy hike from Las Negras.  The internet said it would take 40 minutes to one hour.  Despite being in the 3rd trimester and having a nice big belly, I was somewhat determined to do this hike.  We prepared our bag, lunch, water, fruits, bathing suits, towels and sunscreen – because its a somewhat isolated cala, only accessible via boat or walking, there would be no kiosks selling water!  The first part was fine.  A nice, wide path, an easy incline, not too steep, and gorgeous views from all directions.  The white town on Las Negras stretched out below us and the giant rock that gives Las Negras its name in front of us.

About an hour in, we turned a corner, and there was Cala San Pedro below us.  and… a steep, rocky, narrow path to get down.

Cala San PEdro

Cala San Pedro

Behind me is an abandoned castle that was used to defend against pirates.  I’m not sure if you can tell from this picture just how steep the climb down was… but there were non pregnant people struggling.  I’m only smiling in this picture because we hadn’t reached the really hard part yet!

Cala San Pedro

Cala San Pedro

But we made it down and we enjoyed the beach.  There were a fair amount of people there, not crowded, but not empty either… and… um… lots of nudists.  Who knew?  I swam, but the water was COLD COLD COLD!  its only the beginning of May!

Climbing back up was also difficult but we did it, slowly and surely and with lots of breaks for water.

Our very last day we went to the city of Almería to visit a friend of Alfonso’s, who was also at our wedding.  We had some nice tapas – in Almería they give you giant tapas with your drink – and they give you a pretty big choice- pay for a few drinks and you’ve eaten well!

Before Baby in Almería

Before Baby in Almería

And then… time to drive back to Madrid.

More vacation pictures can be seen here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151413531975920.1073741826.527380919&type=1&l=7ae6bd3eeb

I’m still in love with Madrid

I sometimes forget that I love Madrid.  I forget that I’ve been in a love affair for longer than I’ve known my closest friends.  I easily and often get frustrated with Spain, or Spanish customs, Spanish bureaucracy, rude people who don’t know how to ride the metro, Madrid’s old apartments, traditional ways of living, too much salt on my food, lack of good Asian food, my inability (still!) to really express myself in Spanish…. and I forget that living here fulfills a dream I’ve had for so long that I’ve taken it for granted.

Some people have romantic dreams of France or Italy, mine was Spain.  I think my dream of Spain began freshman year of high school in Señora Halperin’s Spanish class.  She was half Greek and half Spanish and had married a Jewish doctor.  She wore high heels and short skirts.  She was tiny and had dyed red hair and bangs.  I think her Spanish half was from Madrid.  Or at least thats how I like to remember her.  She was my Spanish teacher for all of freshman year.  Our book was called ‘Churros y Chocolate’ and although it followed students as they traipsed around Spain, ordering Churros y Chocolate, it never even touched on the vosotros conjugation of verbs.   Spanish was the only class that I received good grades in and my parents rewarded me with a family trip to Puerto Rico that summer.

I first came to Spain in the summer of 1995.  I backpacked across Europe with my best friend Annie.  We were so young, but we felt so old and mature.  I turned 19 in Rome and we ate a pizza in Trastevere.   We went to Barcelona and climbed the towers of La Sagrada Familia, which didn’t have a roof yet.  We made our way to the beaches of Valencia and sunbathed topless for the first time in our lives.  And of course we made it to Pamplona to get drunk on red wine and sleep in the park and see the running of the bulls.

I didn’t make it to Madrid until 3 years later.  A Spanish teacher at CCNY passed out a brochure of a 6 week program to study Spanish in Madrid.  I jumped at the chance.  I came and made it a point to go out in the afternoon and go sightseeing after my morning classes.  My father had bought me a book of different walks you could do in Madrid.  I walked them all.  I wanted to stay.  I didn’t want to travel and leave.  I wanted to live and experience the life of the city as someone who belonged there.  I met a cute, tall, funny boy with blue eyes and big ears who was a goofy dancer who invited me to “take” a coffee with him after lunch almost every day and now he is my husband.

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I realized my love  for Madrid was still intact two nights ago.  I had dinner with co-workers in La Latina (a neighborhood of restaurants and bars).  I left soon after dinner, as everyone else began to enjoy their free shots and as the effects of ‘all you can drink’ began to become noticeable (to the sober pregnant lady!).  I walked through the narrow streets, passed the old men smoking cigarettes outside the bars, the young women in super high heels, the young kids with their plastic bags of cheap liquor and sodas gearing up for a botellón.    I walked past bright, old man bars with napkins and toothpicks and olive pits littering the floor, dark, trendy wine bars, tapas places packed with stylish citizens of Madrid.  The love welled up when I decided to cross the Plaza Mayor to get to Sol.  I was reminded of the first time I had visited the Plaza Mayor.  I had read all about it in my guide book, probably knew more then of its history than I do now!  “And I live here now,”  I thought to myself. I’m not walking through as a tourist, I’m just on my way from one place to another and the Plaza Mayor just happens to be on the way.  Madrid’s Plaza Mayor is not the most beautiful plaza mayor of Spain.   Many cities boast more impressive plazas, but I was filled with awe as I had been the first time I crossed under its arcs, walked across the cobblestones.  Drank in the atmosphere of the young kids hanging out, oblivious to the history surrounding them, the Indian or Pakistani men selling the crazy blue lights that fly into the sky and come crashing down on your head, the street performers/statues getting their things together, ready to go home for the night.  Filled with tourists, but also filled with people walking from here to there, like I was on Friday night.   I was not a tourist.  I’m not just visiting or passing through.  I live here.

Last night, we had dinner with relatives of Alfonso’s.  They asked where the baby would be born.  Here.  Ah!  She’ll be a Madrileña!  Yes.  That’s right, she will be.  In Spain, you are from where you are born.  People take where they are born very seriously.  You can’t say you are from Madrid if you were born somewhere else.  Even my husband, who was raised in the Canary Islands and has spent the last 20 years in Madrid, says that he is from Ponferrada, the city where he was born.   But my daughter will be from here.

On San Isidro, I’ll dress her up in a traje de chulapa and she’ll learn how to dance the chotis.

Like these kids –

 

and then she’ll grow old and maybe she will still dance on San Isidro.